An In-Depth Look At Digging Tools Let's Get Digging!

If you’re looking for gardening digging tools, recommendations are great! If you’re looking for tools that will help with flower gardening or landscape gardening, here are my recommendations.
Introduction to Garden Digging Tools:
Even among the basic garden tools, you are bound to find a wide variety of designs and sizes - enough to cause confusion when shopping. There is a reason for so many options - using the right tool for the right job makes your work easier and more efficient.
When selecting garden tools, make sure you get the right tool for the job, but don't stop there. Part of selecting any tool is the "How does it feel in my hand?" test. When choosing, try to imagine how the tool will feel after a few hours of use. Remember, as the size of the tool increases, the weight of the tool also increases. Larger tools are efficient, just remember to choose one that won't wear you out too quickly. Here are some of the different tools you might find.
Digging Tools
You use a shovel mainly for digging, but some have other specialized uses, including making deep, narrow holes; edging; moving stuff around, and trenching. The shovel is the mainstay and workhorse of the garden shed.
round pointed garden shovel
Round-Point Shovel
Rounded shovels usually have a beveled edge to help penetrate tough soil situations. They may also have a point to push into soil. The edges are curved to facilitate scooping. Handles are the height at which most people stand and can be ergonomically angled. Grips are often cushioned to prevent blisters. This is the workhorse of the garden, found in virtually every tool shed. It has a rounded blade with a point that permits easier ground penetration. The blade is slightly hollowed, allowing you to scoop dirt, mulch and more, and move it around.

Not all garden shovels are created the same. They come with differently shaped blades and handles and not surprisingly are made with different materials as well. Garden spades, for example, have particularly sharp blades which are useful for edging a garden, cutting sod and transplanting plants. Featuring a shorter handle with a D-grip and a blade with a straight, sharp edge, the spade's main purpose is to cut clean edges in turf or mulch. You can also use it to chop through small roots and dig shallow, square holes for plants.


Today you can buy a miracle broadfork, which will be an excellent replacement for the usual shovel. This tool has a special mechanism, which saves you from the load on your back and arms. When using it you do not need to raise the soil and turn it. In addition, the miracle broadfork not only digs up the ground, it also loosens it at the same time. You will not need a rake to break up large clods and leveling the site. The width of the treated surface (and the tool respectively) is much greater than when using a simple shovel and this is reflected in its performance. Sometimes called a U-bar digger, this tool has anywhere from four to eight 10-inch-long tines attached to a U-shaped bar. The tines loosen the soil as you push the tool into the earth and pull it out

Hoes come in dozens of shapes and sizes and serve many functions, from preparing and furrowing soil to weeding and cultivating it. Garden Hand Hoes, Japanese Garden Hoes, Short Handled Hoes, Long Handled Hoes and garden hand tools online. The floral hoe cuts into the soil quite deeply. Naturally, you wouldn’t want to use this hoe on very shallow-rooted crops. The Warren hoe can get between small plants much easier than the broader bladed hoe. The scuffle hoe, which is pushed back and forth just under the surface of the soil, is for very shallow cultivating and is best used on plants which have roots very close to the surface of the ground. 

This tool is a necessity when your soil is rocky or full of tree roots. Use the broad hoelike blade to pulverize small rocks and soil clods. A wide range of tasks that fall under the remit of landscaping can be undertaken with the use of a pick axe. Normal soil that has become dry and hardened can normally be broken up with a shovel. However, this will be more difficult when it comes to hard clay and hard rocky-type soils. Using the sharp end of the ax will enable you to break up the materials so that it can be removed as necessary.
Garden rakes can sometimes be called soil rakes, bow rakes, ground rakes or level heads. These have fairly long, straight heads which have short, rigid tines. They are designed for some heavy jobs, such as breaking up hard soil and creating planting rows. You’ll probably want one of each type—a steel garden rake and a steel or bamboo leaf rake. Garden rakes make short work of leveling out the ground and creating raised beds, and leaf rakes are good for spreading lightweight mulches and smoothing the finely prepared soil on top of a seedbed.
Spading Fork
A spading fork’s four tines are much heavier than those of a pitchfork. If well-made, it’s a rugged tool, built to do battle with soil — and the rocks it contains — without bending. It pierces the ground more easily than would a shovel or a spade and is great for pre-loosening soil that you can then lift out with a shovel, and for breaking up heavy soil clumps so that amendments can be added. The stubborn, matted roots of meadow grasses yield to it and can then be yanked intact. Dandelions are pulled out unbroken if a spading fork has probed around them. The digging fork, a similar tool with flattened tines, is the best one for prying out root crops such as carrots and potatoes.

If you're looking to till a new garden, cultivators are no match for the raw power and size of a garden tiller. Garden tillers are gas-powered dirt crushers with larger tines and the strength to break through the hard ground. Even if you've already got a large garden that needs tilling and cultivating year-after-year, a garden tiller will help you get your garden ready in less time, covering more area more easily.
Instead of getting down on your hands and knees to ready your soil by hand, let powerful garden tillers do the work for you. Rotary tillers are unsurpassed for breaking new ground, breaking up large soil clumps, digging furrows, and mixing in soil amendments, compost, and cover crops. (But be careful not to over-till because it destroys soil structure.)

Get A Head Start On Garden Planning Now

Get A Head Start On Garden Planning Now
It is time to think Spring, a little winter blues. Start planning the garden now. Drawing a map of your future garden is possibly the most fun part of garden planning! When you are looking at 18" plus of snow covering your garden the soil outside is cold and frozen, dreaming about how your garden will look in just a few months is incredibly satisfying. In the middle of winter and draw out a lovely garden layout map to use in the spring.
Planning your garden is a wonderful way to beat the winter blues. Proper planning will also make your garden planting so much easier once it does warm up outside. Just follow the garden layout you’ve created for yourself and you’ll find that the process of planting your garden outdoors is easy and fun if you’ve got a proper plan.
Before you know what you want, you need to figure out what you have. Start by drawing a map of your yard with existing trees, shrubs, slopes, patios and whatever else is out there. The map can be as formal (a scale version of graph paper) or casual as your need for detail dictates, but the more accurate it is, the more thorough your garden plan will be. Make note of the factors noted above that influence the kind of plantings that will follow. Locate areas with full sun and partial shade. Indicate places that are sheltered from the wind and where the best soil is.
You should only have to do this ounce and create a template. Go outside and measure your available garden space. If you don’t yet have a garden, now is a great time to plan the sizing details out. You’ll already have estimated your total available area in the garden planner, so use that as a guide. While you’re outside, take note of environmental factors such as common wind directions, shadows from other structures, the locations of large trees, and which areas get the most sun. These factors will affect where you place your plants.
I like to use graph paper 1/4 inch equals 1 foot. Your garden planner includes a  layout mapping page. Get your planner out, along with some stationary. I usually use a ruler, pencil, thin black sharpie, and pencil crayons for the garden mapping process. Mapping out your garden begins with setting a proper scale. Since I generally follow the Square-Foot for each plant Gardening Method, I like to draw out my garden layout so that each box on my garden map represents one square foot of real garden soil. It doesn’t matter what scale you set, it just matters that you use it consistently as you make your map. You’ll have to have the real outdoor dimensions of your garden to complete this step.
Once the garden is planned, and the vegetables are chosen it was time to thumb through the seed packets and growing guides to see just how much time they all need to grow, deducing which ones should be started indoors.  I will be starting onions, tomatoes, eggplant, peppers, cucumbers, squash, and pickles, possibly a few more. So far I have only started onions and garlic since they require a very long growing season. We will see if it works. As the winter winds down I will start more seeds, again taking note of how long each plant requires.
This is another good reason to map out your garden. I never plant the same plants in the same place twice. Put simply, crop rotation is a systematic method of deciding what to plant where in your vegetable garden from one year to the next, based on plant groups. Moving plants to new locations each year. It improves your garden in two major ways. First, it helps keep your soil healthy and fertile. Planting the same thing in the same place year after year drains the nutrients from the soil that the plant needs in order to thrive and produce big harvests. Second, rotating plant families helps manage soil-borne diseases like verticillium wilt, and soil-dwelling insects like corn rootworms. These types of diseases and pests prefer certain kinds of plants, and the longer the plants stay in the same soil, the better the chance that these enemies will show up and cause trouble.
Water sources are another important detail to add to the map. I like to keep the water source in the middle of the garden or gardens in my case.  With underground sprinklers or simply a spigot. Keep the source centrally located. Our garden has a slight hump in the middle for good drainage, the water runs to the ends of the rows. Elevations are also important. Does the land slope towards its borders or rise in the center? Generally, you’ll want drainage to move away from your home, not toward it.
Now that you have your garden planned out. Take an inventory of your garden tools. You might need to replace a handle or two. Get ready Spring will be here before you know it.  Check out the selection a 1/22/2018

For The Love Of Your Gardening Tools?

More and more these days things have become disposable. Gone are the days when if you bought something, knives and forks, dinner plates, pots and pans, televisions, fridges or sofas you expected to have them for life or as near as damn it. Nowadays everything is either more expensive to fix than buy or no longer available and has to be changed for something shiny and new. I am old school I take care of what I have and make it last. I sell garden tools but the only tools I have purchased is a mantis tiller, a bigger and better one. The tools I buy are always an upgrade from what I already have

I am hoping that for most of you, gardening tools don't fall into this category. Good quality garden tools can and should last a lifetime or ''as near as damn it''. Apart from rejecting the throwaway mentality hand tools, in particular, become comfortable to use and familiar with an old friend feel. To change them is sometimes like learning a skill all over again. I have a much loved digging spade that I just can't shake off despite that fact that the digging blade has worn away to three-quarters of its original length. The digging spade is about 20 years old, by the way. That's a lot of frickin digging, and still, haven't found any gold in the yard?

                                               There are a few tools put back at this time
With any engine is driven tools like lawnmowers, strimmers and hedge shear you are probably best to get them serviced by a professional. Mowers definitely need to be serviced annually, change the oil every year and have their blades sharpened because of the workload they do throughout the year, and my wife who seems to find every rock and tree root in the yard. The garden tiller which works very hard in my garden I might change the oil twice a season just keep an eye on the color of the oil darl? change it.With strimmers and hedge cutters if they are only used for a couple of days a year biennial servicing should really suffice. If you use them like I do service yearly. I would, however, suggest that you start this equipment up once a month throughout the year to check all is in working order. Electric tools need plugs and cables to be checked and any internal oil if there is the facility. A light rub of the cutting blades with wire wool or brush and a wipe with a rag soaked in vegetable oil is advisable. Many hedge-cutters are self-sharpening so this should take care of itself.
Other hand-held cutting tools like loppers, saws, lawn edging shears, hedge shears and secateurs want to have their blades rubbed lightly with wire wool to remove gunk from plant sap residue and any rust that has occurred during the year. For saws, it is safer to use a wire brush for this job and retain all fingers. Saws, apart from chainsaws, are rarely sharpened these days.  Loppers, shears, and secateurs should have their blades sharpened annually using a fine grade file or whetstone. Always be careful while doing this as the edges can be sharper than you might think.

With digging tools, spades, forks, shovels, trowels and edging irons wash off all traces of soil and allow to thoroughly dry then wipe over with a vegetable oil-soaked rag or I use a sock.  If your spade or edging iron has become blunt you might sharpen the cutting edge with a metal angle grinder. Any tools with wooden handles should be checked for splinters and sanded off if arising. A light application of linseed oils afterward will keep them in tip-top shape. Any broken handles should be refitted with good quality hickory replacements. If you can find Elm is the strongest of all wood handles. Always try to store your tools in a dry environment and if possible keep them off the ground of your shed or garage.

Wherever you store your tools try to have a place for everything and keep it as orderly as possible. I keep all my tools under cover of my potting station, I call it. This is a good time to make an early New Years resolution clean up that shed or garage and be determined to keep it or chuck it. At least until spring anyway! I know I write about tool care a lot. But If you take care of these tools they WILL take care of you. good day and think spring!!

What Every Gardener Needs The Garden Tool List

It is only January and I have the itch to be digging in the soil, we only have 4 months to go. Hurry up spring.
Below is a garden tools list made up of suggestions of garden tools that many gardeners would find valuable.
For most gardens, most gardeners find that long-handled tools are useful not only in saving them from backaches but also for cultivating plants in the least amount of time. Purchasing long-handled tools will save you a lot of headaches. Look for tried and tested materials such as thick carbon or stainless-steel tools.
Digging Fork
First in our garden tools list is the digging fork. Some would name this a gardener’s favorite tool, however, it is fairly your soil’s good friend. This is great for up turning the soil, for aeration, and for mixing vitamins and minerals into the soil.
Digging Spade
Another tool in our garden tools list is the digging spade. This tool is good for digging, turning the soil, soil aeration and its straight blade also makes it a good edging instrument.
Garden Hoes
The unending battle with weeds can be tackled with a hoe or cultivator. This is why garden hoes are also on our garden tools list.  There are many head shapes available and most gardeners want pull hoes, diamond-shaped hoes that work with push and pull strokes, Dutch hoes, scuffle hoes, oscillating hoes, half-moon hoes and heart-shaped hoes. Many gardeners own several hoes for weeding between plantings, for cleaning up areas within crop rows and for creating seed furrows.
Garden Rake
Should you be making a new backyard garden or adding to a current plot, the rake is best for leveling soil and clearing debris on the ground.
Pruning shears also called hand pruners, or secateurs, are a form of scissors for use on flowers. They are sturdy and sufficient to prune difficult branches of trees and shrubs, occasionally up to two centimeters thick.
Loppers are a bigger, long-handled version for branches thicker than pruning shears can cut.
There are 3 one-of-a-kind blade designs for pruning shears: anvil, pass, and parrot-beak.
Bypass Pruners
Bypass pruners are precisely like a couple of scissors, with two blades “passing by” each other to make the cut. At least one of the blades might be curved: a convex upper blade with both concave and a straight lower one. Some skip designs have one blade, the lower jaw being wide (like an anvil) but passing the higher jaw. The ratchet pruner, that could manage stems that are thicker, fits in this class.
Hori Hori Knife
This gardener’s favorite tool is good for gentle digging, weeding, planting and so much more. Buy one that comes with a sheath and have it by your side.
A Hori-Hori referred to as a “soil knife” or a “weeding knife”, is a heavy serrated multi-purpose steel blade for gardening jobs together with digging or reducing. The blade is sharp on each aspect and comes to a semi-sharp point on the end.
Wheelbarrow or Garden Cart
I have a garden cart for my lawn tractor. This is used to carry your garden supplies to and fro the garden. It will save you time and effort.
A good trowel will be able to handle all your planting needs
Water Hose
Do not skimp on a garden hose, get a good quality water hose that does not break easily and you will save yourself a lot of problems. Spend the money and get a top quality hose that will last for a few years.
Gardening can be hard on your hands as a result hand wounds because of thorns and splinters. Choose a durable pair of gloves that can last for many years. It should also not feel bulky to wear; you should store them away from sun, water, and insects.
Every now and then you will have anything in your garden that needs to be lopped. This may be in the form of trees or shrubs, so you will definitely need a pair of loppers. These loppers are able to remove branches at around two inches in diameter, so keep them around in your shed.
Garden Shed
I almost forgot you need a place to store all these tools. There are thousands of sheds on the market today. Take care of your tools they will give you many  years of good service

Get A Grip On These Handles

Get A Grip On These Handles

Jeremiah Carter established the Company in Highburton in 1740. Business flourished, and in 1850 Jeremiah's great, great grandson, Richard Carter, relocated the Company to Dene Works in Kirkburton, which was to become our home for the next 150 years.

It was at these premises where it became clear our future lay in shovel manufacturing; and in 1870 the Carter Shovel was developed for the rapidly expanding coal mining industry, which was fuelling the Industrial Revolution.

Soon after Richard Carter Ltd was incorporated in 1909, World War I broke out and demand tools increased dramatically. Every week, thousands of tools were sent via Kirkburton village railway station to the troops on the front line. Indeed, history repeated itself several years later than World War II placed an even greater demand for our services.

The 1970s saw the beginning of the decline of the Nationalised Coal and Steel Industries and this forced us to seek new markets. This was so successful that, despite many alterations to the Kirkburton premises during the 1980s, we outgrew Dene Works and began the search for a new home.

Eventually, in 1999 we moved again to Neiley Works in Honley. The new premises gave us the opportunity to embrace state of the art manufacturing techniques which, combined with our heritage, enabled us to innovate our product design and enhance quality.

It has been three centuries since our founder, Jeremiah Carter, had the vision and courage to start his Company. The Carter family, are proud of the fact that we still own and run Richard Carter Ltd. We are prouder still of the people who work here, many of who have done so for many years, and how far we have come together. Some may see tradition and innovation as unlikely bedfellows, but for us, they are what we stand for.

Shock safe handles provide full conformity to the exacting specifications of theBS8020. Double protection created by twin laters of sealed polymer sheathing over the fiberglass core.Uniquely numbered and individually certified providing full traceability guaranteeing full conformity to live cable working specifications 
This Y or D style handle is made of a single piece of ash. Primarily. All their Y &D handles are lacquered for that traditional feel. used for garden tools.
Moulded from high impact polypropylene for increased comfort and Ergonomic PYD helps reduce strain on the hands and wrist by keeping the wrist in a neutral position, while in use.
Fibre Max Pro Handle is designed for extremely heavy duty industrial use. Chemically bonded into solid socket tools, these shafts are 30% stronger than "All Metal" types. Fiberglass shafts have excellent structural properties and will not warp or rust in extreme conditions
Shaped Crutch-T This is a plainer and more economical type of T-grip. The handle is not as intricately contoured as the barrel grip. But being mortised and tenoned and glued, it does possess the same strength characteristics.
 Tubular all Steel This type of handle is mainly used for contractors and heavy industrial tools. They weld the steel handles into the body of the shovel socket for extra strength and rigidity, producing a very strong and robust tool for digging.
 Poly Fibro The poly fiber style of handle is designed to offer the workman a high degree of fiberglass strength along with the comfort of the profile Moulded PYD hand grip. The pultruded fiberglass is coated with an injection molded polypropylene sheathing creating strength and stability.

Barrel Crutch This is a plainer and more economic type of T-Grip. The handle is not as intricately contoured as the shaped grip, but being morticized, tenon and glued, it does possess all the strength characteristics

I was looking for something interesting to write about. I went about ten pages back on google for garden tools. Something unique something different. This company caught my eye and the history was overwhelming. I like stories about the little guys. Their story is great and the tools they build are quite nice also. I only scratched the surface on what they manufacture, but if you would like to check out the rest of their products here is a link
Todd Attoe and his love for gardening and getting into garden tools. I am always looking for some tool to make the job easier and less stressful in your gardening experience. I have been an avid gardener all of my life. For the gardening enthusiast, having quality tools and gardening accessories makes the outdoor experience all that more rewarding. Tools that are manufactured to higher specifications are more reliable and will perform better than the ones of the lesser standard, and with a minimum of maintenance. In addition, the time spent on repairing inexpensive or substandard instruments is all but eliminated, and as a result, the garden receives more quality attention. Unique garden tools brought to you by Hand tools, garden supplies, pots and planters, power tools and composting supplies.1/1/2018

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